Picturesque Panhala.

Panhala is ideal for those looking for a picturesque long weekend break from Pune/Mumbai..

She tells you why you should quickly plan a trip as the monsoons threaten to disappear soon.

Sugarcane fields and occasional hills of the Sahyadri range put up an unforgettable ‘slideshow’ on a car’s windows while we drive from Pune to Kolhapur on the NH4. The uphill road to Panhala is about 20 kms away from Kolhapur on the Kolhapur-Ratnagiri highway NH 204. The road climbing up to the fort is often covered in clouds during the monsoons, reducing the visibility to barely 100m.

Panhala is a walled settlement though parts of the wall have been demolished or disintegrated. Some of the old buildings are still functional and are used as government offices. The old palace of Queen Tararani now houses a school.

Rainy Splendour

During monsoons, rain and mist are constant features. Situated at over 3000 feet above sea level, there is a strong wind blowing in almost 24x7. The entire valley is carpeted in rich shades of green with the red soil making artistic intermittent designs. The landscape glows richly in the weak sunlight that filters out occasionally between the clouds. Keep your camera ready to catch that elusive rainbow that may just appear when you are least prepared

At several spots like Pusati Buruj, the wind will tempt you to stand out facing the valley like Rose Bukater in the movie ‘Titanic.” While this is surely exhilarating, do look out for slippery moss or broken stones.

History Unlimited

All historical sites are situated around the periphery of the plateau and can be easily accessed on foot. The less adventurous can travel in their vehicle or take a rickshaw where the driver may double up as a tourist guide.

The Sajja Kothi gives a panoramic view of the plains below. Shivaji planned several missions here and later Sambhaji was imprisoned here. The impressive huge granaries at Ambarkhana are said to have stored grains for four months for the army when Panhala was under siege by Adil Shah’s forces in 1660. The Teen Darwaja shrewdly uses architecture for defence. Though these structures are overgrown with moss or trees they are a mute testimonial of advances in construction technology of a bygone era.

There is wonderful bronze statue of Baji Prabhu Deshpande at the fort entrance. It stands proudly passing the test of time reminding us of his valour as he fought to stave off the enemies chasing Shivaji at Ghod Khind (later renamed Pavan Khind).

Trek Out

Retrace Shivaji’s steps to Vishalgah via Pavan Khind when he escaped from Panhala or trek up to Panhala from its foothills. The Mhasai plateau may prove irresistible as it beckons you through curtains of rain. For the more adventurous, rappelling down the rocky hill face is an exciting alternative. Do tie up for experienced guides and specific equipment. Several organisations in Pune and Mumbai can organise a trek for you. It’s a good idea to check fitness levels of your group so everyone has a wonderful time.

The Botanical garden too deserves a visit for its many old trees and an interesting model of the fort.

Panhala is reasonably clean and has many options to stay. If sightseeing or trekking is not your forte, then visit Panhala for pure unadulterated rest and let its sights and sounds completely refresh you

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Ooty - Monsoon

If you love to experience the monsoon romance, the mist and the emerald beauty of nature, head to Ooty during the monsoons.

The locals say monsoon in Ooty is unlike in other cities and it’s mostly a drizzle, except for the rare occasions when the wind and the rain get naughty and play havoc with nature, uprooting trees and blocking roads. If you are willing to take risk, if at all the rare phenomenon of a natural disaster occurs, head to Ooty for a memorable monsoon holiday. The hill station will be less-crowded, you will get the space to move around freely and of course the greenery around and the tiny droplets of water will awaken your senses. Here is a glimpse of the magical land when it rains…

OOTY FACT FILE


How to get there:

By Air: Coimbatore is well connected with several Indian cities.

By Road: Ooty is 110 km from Coimbatore, 155 km from Mysore, 187 km from Calicut and 284 km from Bangalore. Frequent buses ply between these routes. From Coimbatore you can drive via Coonoor or Kothagiri. Both routes offer a different experience.

By Rail: The nearest railhead is Mettupalam (46 km), but if the traffic clogs due to heavy rains, you can take the Nilgiri toy train to reach Ooty.

When to visit: Any time of the year is good, but if you are yearning for a misty romantic ambience, visit during the monsoons months - between July and September.

What to buy: Honey, Eucalyptus oil and other aromatic oils

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Goa Travel

The lesser known of the two districts that comprise the state of Goa, South Goa is popular for its deserted beaches, old mansions, 500-year-old churches and authentic 17th century Portuguese cuisine.


If you want to break away from the city noise, crowd, stress and tension, visit South Goa to find solace amidst the blue seas, beautiful landscapes and fine food.

Extending from Vasco da Gama and Bogmalo to Palolem, beautiful beaches stretch along the Western coast, which includes townships of Bogmalo, Velsao, Majorda, Colva, Benaulim, Betul and Agonda.

Apart from the “virgin” beaches, some beaches like Colva, Benaulim, Bogmalo, Palolem, Varca, Cavelossim, Agonda and Benvali are worth a visit.

While exploring the interiors, you might come across a certain Church of Holy Spirit, which brings back the memories of colonial rule. The uniqueness of the architecture is that it has been destroyed and rebuilt many times since it first came into existence and still stands till date. A perfect place to spend some time by yourself. Check out the walls and inscriptions on them which are truly a work of art.

More popular for its party culture, not many look deeper into Goa’s rich cultural heritage. But a visit to Goa Chitra, a museum in Benaulim may change your mind. Started by artist Victor Hugo Gomes, the place is a contrast between Goa’s past and present. From 16th century palanquins used by the rajas, to ‘ahead of time technology’ used by the farmers then, to modern and antique paintings — the museum amplifies the transition of Goan culture as the administrative rule changed hands from the rajas to the Portuguese to the current Indian government.

Heading to Palacio do Deao, a colonial palace at Quepem, is every foodie’s delight. Originally built by a Portuguese nobleman, the villa was reconstructed retaining its 17th century essence and today is a major tourist attraction. The 300-year-old authentic cuisine, which is a close relative of the Mediterranean cuisine, has some dishes which are virtually un-pronounceable to untrained tongues, but are truly a gourmet’s dream come true.

Ever dreamt of seeing a 300-year-old palace as it was during its days of glory? Located in Chandor village, Braganza House is a magnificent display of colonial architecture and is maintained just as it used to be centuries ago. The spacious rooms, fine furniture, ancient cutlery and other artefacts are a sheer delight. The owners claim that the dining table has just one more duplicate — it’s in the royal dining hall of the Buckingham Palace. The palace houses the largest library in Goa.

South Goa is often seen as the quieter sister of her older party-friendly sibling, North Goa. But nevertheless it’s the perfect place to visit to relax by the seaside amidst beautiful architecture and fine food. Definitely a delight for your tongue, soul and mind

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Karnataka's wild forests

I promptly on the first day of the year left for Karnataka with a group of friends. What a trip. I left every destination wanting a bit more, just with that just small bit of me wanting to stay back yet another day, sure sign of a successful trip I guess.

Kabini
Where we stayed: The Bison jungle retreat was not easy to locate, but what a charming place once we found it. Located on the shores of river Kabini, overlooking the Nagarhole wildlife park, it would be safe to say it is the best place to stay in the region.

The ambience and style is inspired by lodges in Africa. Tents have been imported from Kenya and are mighty comfortable. Service is slightly iffy, but saying that, the charm of the place more than makes up for it. Make sure you make an appointment with Babloo for a head massage. Our friend Mr Chin who experienced it first hand swears that Babloo was “the best thing that happened to the Bison”. In terms of location, it was perfect to explore the lush green forests of the area.

What we saw: Many Asian Tuskers, a pack of wild dogs, wild boars, spotted deer, crocodiles, woodpeckers, mynahs hawks and the babbler.

What we ate: It is shameful even to recount the packets of bread that must have been used every morning for breakfast, devoured with fried eggs and green chillies. The shahi tukra and the chicken biryani deserve a special mention.

How to get there: Fly to Bengaluru and drive via Mysore. Approximately five hours by car, provided you get out of Bengaluru within an hour.

Highlight: Coracle ride on the river Kabini in true “Mani Ratnam” style (yes, I even heard some of the group members crooning away Dil hai chhota sa).

Siddapur, Coorg

Where we stayed: The school estate run by super efficient Rani Aiyappa is what a perfect home stay should be. Nestled in a 250 acre coffee plantation, Rani started this just to earn some pin money and now it is a full time job for her. Her beautifully manicured garden is such a treat, nearly as special as the meals served by her well trained kitchen. Rooms are spacious and have an old English charm to them. The house is over 100 years old and part of it still retains the old-world charm.

What we ate: Now this is going to be a very long list. Each and everything that we ate was pure delight, every lunch, every dinner was a long affair. However, the Pandy curry (Coorg pork curry) deserves a special mention because the entire vessel was licked clean by us.

What we saw: Actually I saw nothing, I was more interested in lazing around in her garden, and reading, and waiting for the next mealtime. The others went to the elephant orphanage expecting to give a pedicure to the elephants, but I believe they were quite disappointed.

Highlight: Walk through the plantation with KK, our co-host and Rani’s shy husband.

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